In the mid-nineteenth century, Hawaiian cowboys had to manhandle feral cattle, fierce and big-horned. These intrepid paniolo branded their captures as a mark of conquest. And yet, even in today’s more settled times, branding is still necessary. Large tracts of leeward Haleakala remain open-grazed by both branded and feral cows. Ranching, Maui-style, is still a brawny, little-mechanized industry. You can regard branding irons as a symbol of Maui’s open spaces and close-held traditions.